THE SWAN in CHISWICK | Bangers & Mash gone Missing

Article by guest author Peter Brooker

The Swan, on top of Acton Lane. The barman compliments me on my hat.

'Not just the hat man, the whole outfit, looks great.' We're off to a good start. The inside is empty, literally. There is wooden-shaped furniture and in a wooden-shaped bar, to coin a Fleming-ism. Prints of original drink adverts adorn the wall. All slightly crooked. 'Nothing exists in that small format,' a friend in the trade later tells me.

Outback a chap called Andrew sits us in the shade, and tells me they've taken Bangers and Mash off the menu for the summer.

It's a sinker.

We start with the padron peppers and the ‘Tostadas de Chorizo’ - oven-roasted chorizo & honey on toast. A bottle of Crémant de Bourgogne ‘JCB No 21,’ Nuits St Georges, NV Brut. Which is opened by the time I return to the table after taking some shots of the interiors.

The starters are delicious. Although I prefer my peppers a little crispier.

Our waiter Andrew tells me he is one of the few surviving staff from the old guard. He says he stayed on because he's local, and the job pays well. His partner is looking for a job in book publishing, and that their shelves at home are just brimming with books.

The main arrives.

Seafood & chorizo Paella. Langoustine, Gambas, tiger prawns, squid, clams & mussels - Saffron & coriander. The wife thinks it's not got much taste, much like a frozen food effort from COOK.

It's not bad, it's just a bit bland. Which in itself is bad.

We skip dessert.

I enquired about a booking for 8, at lunch on a Friday. Unfortunately they don't do lunch during the week. The kitchen opens at 6pm according to their website and all day at weekends. It's a shame, because the outdoor area is contained, civilized. The paella wasn't a hit, but we've had great meals before (namely the illusory bangers & mash) and it would have been good to introduce our friends to this little gem.

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