How to build your entire wardrobe with only 10 outfits | ep. 1 The navy suit

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I like to follow the concept of a minimalist capsule wardrobe but at the same time have great outfits for every occasion. The main requirement for a look to make its way into my wardrobe is to withstand the test of time: it worked ten years ago, it works now, and it will work ten years from now. The first look that fits that bill to a T is a fitted navy suit combined with white button up, grey tie and a finishing touch of a white pocket square.

There are few simple rules you should follow in order to perfectly style your navy suit (and any other suit in general). These include:

The Blazer: There are three things you should pay your attention to when selecting a blazer which are the widths of lapels, length of the sleeves and overall fit. Make sure the lapels on your blazer are rather slim, sometimes wider lapels can make your appearance wider, but this all depends on your body shape. Wider peek lapels are a tailoring classic but do not suit the masses, so I would suggest getting a second or third opinion when going for a wide lapel. A general rule is - don’t have anything wide around your face, because it makes everything else appear wider as well. The Sleeves should be a tiny bit shorter than you might expect (even though it may feel counterintuitive) so that the cuffs of your crisp white shirt show approx. ¾ of an inch below your blazer. Getting the perfect fit is key to everything, pay attention to how much extra space you have in your shoulder area (where the top button of your blazer buttons) and your bicep area. In these areas the blazer should be snug but not tight. You should be able to comfortably put your arms in your jacket yet not to have it too loose, which would create wrinkles of excessive fabric.

The Tie: As Oscar Wilde wisely pointed out “A well tied-tie is the first serious step in life”. Besides knowing how to tie a tie it’s also important to know how to style it correctly. I suggest to follow the same principle as for lapels and go for a slim or semi-slim tie of which a grey tie works wonders with a navy suit. A simple rule you should adhere to is to match the widest measurement of your tie to the suit lapel width. A semi slim tie has a width of around 6 to 6.5cm, measure your ties by calculating the distance between the two widest parts which should be at the tie blade.

The Trousers: You want them to fit you like a fitted pair of jeans. It’s the middle of the spectrum between slim fit and relaxed fit you are looking for.

The Shoes: The key thing to remember about the shoes is that their main role is to complement your outfit and not to make a statement. This is why I believe you should avoid wingtips or any other major details. Also, avoid a boxy shape.

The Pocket Square: There are so many ways to wear a pocket square but my recommendation is simple. Go for the straight line fold. It might be understated yet it screams class. If you are styling your suit and pocket square without a tie, this gives you more freedom to experiment with a pocket square fold.

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Now you have my complete guide to one of the top 10 essential looks in men’s wardrobe. I call this look “the confidence booster”. Whether I want to look great when meeting a business client or impress a date, this is the look I can always rely on. Try it for yourself. When you do this look right you will feel like a million dollars, yet, you don't have to part with a million dollars to get it.

 

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