Shalati Kruger Park: A Luxury Safari on a Train Overlooking the Sabie River

How best to describe this place? Well, it's a hotel. But it's also a train. A rather luxurious train, permanently stationed on a historic railway bridge overlooking the Sabie River in South Africa's Kruger National Park.

And that's just the beginning.

After speaking to the staff, I discovered that the project was born out of COVID, with several investors reportedly pouring around $50 million into bringing the concept to life. The train itself sits on a historic railway line, originally used to transport passengers and goods through the region. It's a rather ingenious way of repurposing a piece of railway history, although I suspect the Brits had something to do with building it in the first place.

Each carriage has been converted into a luxury bedroom, complete with its own little balcony. And what a balcony. Lean over the railing and, depending on your luck, you might find yourself looking down at buffalo, elephants, crocodiles and, of course, hippos going about their business in the river below.

It's not every day you wake up in a railway carriage and find an elephant staring back at you.

The Safari Experience

The daily routine starts rather early. At 5am, you're whisked off into the national park for your morning game drive. Kruger is enormous, and you're not necessarily going to be surrounded by animals at every turn. But the guides are an exceptionally knowledgeable bunch, and they all seem to be in cahoots with one another, communicating over CB radio whenever something interesting is spotted.

And by interesting, I mean one of the Big Five: the rhino, lion, leopard, elephant and buffalo.

There's something quite exciting about watching the guides exchange information and then setting off in pursuit of a sighting. You never quite know what you're going to encounter, which is rather the point of a safari.

By around 8am, you're back at the lodge, where breakfast awaits, accompanied by bottomless mimosas. Once you've got a little buzz going, I'd recommend heading back to your quarters for a quick nap.

Although sleeping isn't always straightforward. The river below has its own soundtrack, and a herd of elephants and hippos can make an extraordinary amount of noise. Roars, grunts,

screeches and the occasional commotion provide a rather unusual alternative to the usual hotel ambience.

High Tea, Infinity Pools and a Spot of Lunch

By midday, it's time for High Tea in the central bar and deck area, which sits right in the middle of the railway bridge. There's an infinity pool overlooking the river, plenty of seating and some wonderful vantage points from which to observe the wildlife.

I should also mention that Shalati is an adults-only property. No children running around, no screaming in the pool and no family arguments over who gets the sun lounger. Just a wonderfully relaxed atmosphere in which to enjoy the surroundings.

After a couple of beers, it's time for lunch.

Now, the hotel has been awarded Two Michelin Keys, and it's worth explaining that Michelin Keys and Michelin Stars are two entirely different things. Stars are awarded to restaurants, whereas Keys recognise hotels offering exceptional experiences, hospitality and settings.

In Shalati's case, the setting is rather difficult to argue with. How many hotels can boast that they're a luxury train permanently parked on a bridge above a river in the middle of a national park?

Apparently, the property is still one Key short of the coveted three, partly because it doesn't yet have a gym. According to the sommelier, that's something they're planning to remedy next year. Personally, I can't imagine too many guests complaining about the lack of exercise equipment when there's an infinity pool and an entire national park outside.

After lunch, there's time for another little nap before the second game drive, which typically runs from around 5pm until 8pm.

Then it's back to the lodge for dinner, perhaps a little hanky-panky, and finally bed. All in all, it's a rather civilised way of experiencing the African bush.

Food, Service and Setting

One of the things that really stands out about Shalati is the standard of hospitality. The service is impeccable, the food and drink are without equal, and the guides are patient, knowledgeable and clearly passionate about what they do.

But ultimately, it's the setting that steals the show. Sitting on a railway bridge, looking out across the Sabie River, with wildlife wandering below you, is an extraordinary experience. It's one of those places where you find yourself repeatedly reaching for your camera, even though no photograph is ever quite going to do it justice.

And getting there is surprisingly straightforward. It's relatively close to Johannesburg, with a connecting flight of around an hour dropping you at an airport just five minutes from the lodge. Apparently, the airport has even been voted the cutest in the country. I'm not entirely sure what the judging criteria are, but it certainly gets points for convenience.

A Few Pros and Cons PROS

Accessibility: Relatively easy to reach from Johannesburg. A short connecting flight and you're practically at the front door.

Food and drink: Exceptional. Plenty of choice, beautifully presented and certainly no shortage of it.

Service: Impeccable. The staff make you feel thoroughly looked after without being intrusive.

Safari guides: Knowledgeable, patient and clearly well connected with their fellow guides.

The setting: Quite simply, one of the most awe-inspiring hotel locations I've encountered. A luxury train overlooking a river in the middle of Kruger National Park. What's not to like?

CONS

Price: It's certainly expensive, although I'd argue it's good value considering the overall experience.

Bathroom taps: They just about reach the sinks, but could do with a rethink.

Room layout: Perhaps one too many chairs in the bedroom, making things feel a little cluttered. And that's about it. I'm really splitting hairs here. In reality, I struggled to find anything worth complaining about.

Final Thoughts

Shalati is one of those hotels where the accommodation is almost as much of an attraction as the destination itself. The idea of converting a historic train into a luxury hotel and parking it permanently on a bridge above the Sabie River is wonderfully eccentric. But it works, and it works rather brilliantly.

You have the wildlife, the game drives, the food, the drink, the hospitality and the sheer novelty of sleeping in a railway carriage overlooking one of Africa's great rivers.

It's not the cheapest way to experience Kruger, but if you're going to do a luxury safari, you might as well do something a little different.

Further Safari Reading

If safaris are your thing, do have a look at my previous three articles:

1. South Africa Safari Survival – From an Expert Guide – Some excellent advice from someone who knows the business inside out, particularly if you're wondering what to expect.

2. Aquila Safari & Spa Review – A more sanitised safari experience, ideal for families and first-timers.

3. Camp Okavango: Luxury Safari Review – A rather more expensive proposition, but an extraordinary experience in the Okavango Delta.