Baden bei Wien: Austrian's Would Rather not tell you How Good this Place is
The sunflowers had flowered and died in the fields that lead us from Vienna International airport to Das Gutenbrunn Thermen & Sporthotel. So much for the scenic route which was roughly an hour's drive. On arrival we were greeted by a lovely lady called Claudia, although after informing her we were from London, she hastened to welcome me as 'Mr Coronavirus'. Awesome.
My girlfriend Anastasia whispered in my ear, 'that's what you get for transparency'. Good point, didn't clock your hourly Coronavirus reports Austria, but as there's only 9 million of you, in a country that covers 34 thousand square miles, I'm sure social distancing wasn't an issue. Still let’s move on shall we.
The Das Gutenbrunn Thermen & Sporthotel is situated in Baden bei Wien (Austria), which topped a listicle of Eleven European Spa Towns inscribed as UNESCO World Heritage Site. The truth is, this town is for locals. The prices are set for locals. The thermal spa is free to hotel guests, and 5 euros for a day pass to anyone else. You can spend all day in there for 5 euros! Crazy. The hotel was roughly 150 euros a night and came with breakfast, a pool table and a 24/7 honesty bar. (You pay for what you drink in an unmanned tips jar. It's ok, they trust you).
The food is good, even priced. A short walk from the hotel is a place called Marktamt. It's guarded by two docile German Shepherds, and we ate there every day. Our dishes varied from Classic Viennese roast beef complemented by risotto specialties to parrotfish from local Austrian salt basins. Make sure you ask for a local wine.
We shopped in parochial little stores on the high street. A place called Cube's M3 stocked some organically sourced Denim from Homme Select. There are plenty of shoe stores around and the main brands in town are Salamander and Bugatti.
Whilst in town we lucked out on seeing the Baden Foto Festival in full swing. The festival consisted of some awe inspiring drone shots of airplanes being refuelled, cars parked; abandoned in lego-like formation. Sadly the festival is seasonal, and only on for a few more weeks. If only we could do something similar for London-based photographers.
Switching gears, not so seamlessly, Beethoven was ill for large parts of his life. Gut problems. He sought refuge here in Baden and frequented the thermal spas in a bid to convalesce from his internal and seemingly incurable wounds. Here they have enshrined the house in which he lodged. The Beethoven museum also has the piano which the staff say, 'we're 99% sure he wrote his 9th symphony on that'. Good enough for me.
Useful tips
The hotel does car valet trips from the airport for 3 people for 45 euros. If you would rather not have the fuss of hiring a car then book ahead with the hotel.
Currently all restaurants are asking to see proof of vaccinations. Have the information printed out and put in a laminate sleeve to carry round.
Check in an extra bag at the airport and bring an extra carry on. The shoe shopping is very good and you'll want space to bring back the boxes.
